Wild Mushroom Basque "Tortilla"

Dorie Greenspan's book, Around My French Table, includes a variety of dishes that have come into France from other cultures, near and far. In the case of the Basque Tortilla, France borrowed at least the name of the dish from the area across the Pyrennes. This recipe has a Spanish name - "tortilla" - although we'd be tempted to call this fluffy egg dish a frittata or an omelet.

n.o.e.'s notes:

- The Basque Tortilla is this week's choice for the French Fridays With Dorie cooking group.

- In Dorie's main recipe, a cooked potato and onion mixture is added to the eggs, but in the "Bonne Idees" sidebar, Dorie gives several variations, including a mushroom one. That was all the permission I needed to skip the potatoes and use the package of fresh wild mushrooms in my fridge.

- First I cooked the mushrooms with onions, sherry and nutmeg according to the mushroom filling in this strudel recipe from Leite's Culinaria. I had 4 ounces of mushrooms, just right for 1/4 recipe of filling.

- I skipped the tricky math and figured that my mushrooms would be about the correct amount for 2/3 recipe of the Basque Tortilla. That meant I needed 6 large eggs; I got out my scale and measured out the equivalent weight of fresh eggs from my farm box. 3 enormous duck eggs and 2 of the smaller chicken eggs were the perfect amount. I used my small cast iron skillet.

- The recipe couldn't be easier: mix the filling and eggs, then cook nice and slowly on top of the stove, with a few swipes of a silicone spatula to make sure the sides don't stick to the side of the skillet. When the center is nearly cooked the skillet is broiled until the eggs are just set. Under the broiler the tortilla puffs and browns beautifully.


the verdict:

The hot "tortilla" made for a lovely dinner with pumpkin soup and a green salad. The very center of the tortilla was like custard even though there was no dairy added to the eggs. The mushrooms/onion filling gave a savory, almost earthy, set of flavors to the eggs. Next time I might add a bit of prosciutto. Leftovers were quite nice for lunch the next day, served at room temperature as Dorie suggests. In fact, I preferred the barely-warm serving to the one that I ate when it was hot.

Wild Mushroom and Green Peppercorn Meatloaf for Sputnik

I've been having such a good time trying out new recipes that I tend to forget about some of our longtime favorites. But forgetting about a recipe as fabulous as this Wild Mushroom and Green Peppercorn Meatloaf would be a huge mistake! It is - bar none - the best meatloaf that I've ever eaten, and is no more difficult to put together than the basic run-of-the-mill stuff. One taste and you will realize that it is in a completely different league from the standard ketchup-topped loaf. Even if you usually don't like meatloaf, I'll bet you'd love this one.


n.o.e.'s notes:

- This meatloaf has been part of my dinner repertory for so long that I've lost track of where I initially found the recipe. My hunch is the New York Times Magazine about 15 or so years ago, but it's really anybody's guess. For the recipe, scroll down to the end of this post.

- The original recipe called for ground beef. I've made it that way, and it is definitely tasty, but it's even better when made with a mixture of different ground meats. At various times I've used ground turkey, chicken, pork, veal, goat as well as beef. My usual blend is beef, pork and turkey (the regular not the white meat turkey), although I'm pretty sure I've made it with all turkey.

- Most often I make my own "fresh" breadcrumbs - stale bread pulsed in the food processor - but I've also used breadcrumbs that I toast and keep in the freezer.

- The dried green peppercorns are much better for this recipe than the ones that come in a jar of brine. They are the secret ingredient that makes this meatloaf so special.

- I usually buy a package of fresh mixed wild mushrooms in the produce department, but I've also chosen my own assortment of mushrooms. I've never tried reconstituted dried mushrooms, but I'm sure they would work. The mushrooms really boost the umami factor of this meatloaf.

- The recipe can be made in one large loaf pan, or in a few smaller ones. It freezers beautifully. I've served it to family and company alike.


Although this meatloaf is one of my top 5 favorite dinners, it was perhaps loved best by our Australian Shepherd, Sputnik, who was my first dog - first pet actually. We lost Sputnik in December, just a few days shy of his 13th birthday on Christmas. As a puppy, he was a feisty handful, but with a bit (well, a lot really) of hard work on the training front he turned into an amazing companion.

Sputnik's greatest joys in life were: bringing in the newspaper (for a treat), picking up things to hand to us when we dropped them (also for a reward), and licking any plate or cooking pot we were willing to give him. His favorite food was this peppercorn meatloaf; the first time my husband gave him a serving of it, he just closed his eyes and inhaled, smelling the fantastic aroma before he could bring himself to taste any.

I can think of no better tribute to Sputnik than that written by a former landlady of my husband's about her beloved English Bulldog, Winston:

"Born a dog, died a gentleman."

That, and remembering him every time we enjoy this meatloaf.


the recipe:

Wild Mushroom and Peppercorn Meatloaf

2 lbs ground meat (any combination of beef, veal, pork, turkey)
1 ½ c. seasoned bread crumbs
2 eggs
1 T. minced garlic
2 c. mixed wild mushrooms, chopped
1 ½ T olive oil
¾ c. yellow onions
1 ½ tsp. salt
1 ½ tsp. pepper
1 ½ T. whole green peppercorns (the dry ones)

1. mix all ingredients, then press into loaf pan(s)
2. Bake at 350 degreed F for 1 hr 10 min

CI's Coq Au Vin

This was another joint cooking effort with my husband on a Sunday afternoon. A few days earlier he had been paging through my impulse-buy Cook's Illustrated Winter 2009 Soups and Stews issue and stopped at page 46. "I love Coq au Vin," he said, "Let's make this recipe." When Sunday rolled around, that's just what we did.
[general recipe at end of this post]

n.o.e.'s notes:

- Here's what this recipe claims:

"Put together and on the table far faster than I would have thought (in about one hour, give or take), this coq au vin proves that classic French, cooking can fit into any schedule."

A word to the wise: don't rely on this promise. You can immediately disprove it by reading through the recipe, at which point you will see that the the times specified for the individual steps add up to nearly 2 hours, without even counting time for chopping and prep. This recipe took us 2.5 - 3 hours, start to eating (one step, reducing the sauce, took us double the estimated time).

- This is a classic braised dish: brown chicken and set aside, saute vegetables in the same pan, add liquid and simmer chicken + vegetables until chicken is tender. Then reduce/thicken the sauce before serving all together.

- We used just over 4 lbs chicken - 2 large breasts and 6 small thighs.

- I had just 7 oz of mushrooms, so we were a bit short.

- 2 cups of pearl onions weighed 8 oz or more, not the 5 oz. the recipe says. We used the 8 oz. This would have been too many onions if we'd had the proper amount of mushrooms.

- Because of the size of our chicken pieces, we put the light meat and dark meat in at the same time, and it was all cooked in about 35 minutes of simmering.

- Reducing the sauce took a really long time. I don't think I'd reduce the sauce quite so much next time - 2 cups of sauce for 8 pieces of chicken means just 1/4 cup per piece - not much to cover a piece of chicken and some noodles! It would also be nice to have less time standing at the stove!

- We served the chicken with Light 'n Fluffy Extra Wide Egg Noodles - which are the noodles that are the highest rated by the Cook's Illustrated tasters (along with Black Forest Girl brand).

- For once, I think the number of servings in the recipe was too low - this would serve 6 people rather than 4 (at 4 servings, that would be a pound of chicken per person).

the verdict:

The end result was well worth the time and effort! The sauce was rich and brown and the layers of flavors and aromas were fantastic. Even though the chicken was nice and tender my husband said he'd simmer the chicken longer next time so it would be falling off the bones. The thigh meat was far better than the breast - we would do all dark meat in the future.

Goodness knows I'm not one to shy away from bacon, but we actually thought the bacon garnish detracted from the other flavors. Next time I'd skip the bacon and just use some reserved bacon fat from my freezer for browning the chicken.

The noodles were great with this dish.

This recipe is a serious contender for being our favorite "Fairly Complicated Chicken Recipe." We spent a bit of time debating whether it was more delicious than the Country Captain that we made a few weeks ago, and then finally realized it was like trying to choose a favorite child! (note to our children: although you are very different, you are equally wonderful and we love you both the same!) OK, Coq au Vin when you need a special "chicken + noodles" dish and Country Captain when you need that wonderful "chicken + rice". . .

I'm sending this over to Ruth for this week's Presto Pasta Night roundup (#107). Head over there on Friday to see a wonderful variety of noodle-y dishes.

the recipe:

Coq au Vin
Here are the ingredients:

6 oz thick-cut bacon, chopped medium (I used 4 oz of Benton's bacon)
4 lb. bone-in skin-on chicken pieces (CI says to use at least half dark meat for maximum flavor)
10 oz. white mushrooms (I used 5 oz white + 2 oz wild mushrooms)
5 oz frozen pearl onions, thawed (c. 2 cups)
1 T. tomato paste
2 medium garlic cloves, minced
3 T. unbleached flour
1 bottle - 750 ml - red wine (medium body)
2.5 cups chicken broth
1 tsp minced fresh thyme leaves (1/4 tsp dried)
2 bay leaves
2 T. unsalted butter
2 T. minced fresh parsley leaves

... And summarized directions:

First cook the bacon, remove it, then brown the chicken pieces in two batches, removing them to a plate when cooked.

Pour off most of the fat. Brown the mushrooms and onions, then add garlic and tomato paste, cook briefly, then add the flour for a minute.

Add the wine, broth, thyme and bay leaves to the pot, then the chicken. Cover and simmered until the chicken is fully cooked and tender - about an hour for the dark meat. (White meat cooks faster, so should be added after the dark has cooked for a while. We judged this based on the size of our pieces of chicken.)

Remove the cooked chicken and let it rest while the sauce reduces to around 2 cups (the recipe says 20 minutes, but it was well over 40 minutes. I wouldn't reduce it so much - the extra sauce will not go to waste!) Then stir in the butter and season the sauce. Pour over the chicken pieces, garnish with bacon and parsley.

Voila!!

Fettuccine with Sausage, Garlic, and Mushrooms

A couple of years ago when I was browsing the Costco book tables - honestly those stacks of books can be a veritable treasure-trove - I picked up the Williams Sonoma cookbook Meats & Poultry in the series "The Best of the Kitchen Library." Every single recipe that I've tried from the book has been absolutely great (so good that I have now aquired several more titles in the same W-S series, also at Costco). So when I chose the Fettucine with Sausage, Garlic, and Mushrooms I figured it would be at least a decent plate of pasta. And I'm happy to report that WS came through again! [recipe at the end of this post]

n.o.e.'s notes:

- I ran out of white wine so I splashed in a bit of red too.

- I sliced up some Aidell's Chicken Andouille for the sausage

- When cooking the garlic, I added a shake of red pepper flakes.

- The pasta was a garlic and parsley flavored fettucine, made by Al Dente. I love this brand of pasta; the flavors are good and it cooks very quickly (2-3 minutes). [update: I've found this pasta at Whole Foods and also at our local Publix supermarket. The company's website is here]

the verdict:

This pasta recipe is excellent! My husband liked it so much that he went back for seconds when his first serving was only half gone! The garlic and the mushroom liquid combine for a fantastic earthy flavor. I think it could be just as good with chicken stock and a touch of vinegar as with the wine. We enjoyed the little kick from the spicy sausage and the red pepper.

I love that this pasta recipe is neither tomato-based nor dairy-based - makes for a nice variety.

I can also report that the leftovers were great from the freezer!


I'm submitting this to Presto Pasta Nights , a wonderful roundup of noodle-based dishes. This week's hostess is Pam of Sidewalk Shoes , so stop over there on Friday to check out all the delicious pasta dishes!

the recipe:

Fettucine with Sausage, Garlic, and Mushrooms

3/4 lb cooked low-fat smoked chicken sausages
1 T olive oil
2 lg cloves garlic, minced
1 lb white or cremini mushrooms, brushed clean and thinly sliced
1 cup dry white wine
1/4 cup minced fresh flat-leaf parsley
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 lb dried fettucine

1. Slice the sausages into rounds about 1/4 inch thick.

2. In a large nonstick frying pan over medium heat, heat the olive oil. When it is hot, add the sausage slices. Cook, stirring often, until lightly browned, about 3-4 minutes.

3. Add the garlic and mushrooms and stir until the mushrooms have softened and released some of their liquid, about 3 minutes.

4. Add the wine, bring to a boil over medium heat, and cook until the mushrooms are tender, about 3 minutes longer. Stir in the parsley and season to taste with salt and pepper.

5. While the sauce is cooking, bring a pot of salted water to a boil. Add the fettucine, stir well, and cook until al dente, 8-10 minutes, or according to the package directions.

6. Drain the fettucine and place in a warmed shallow serving bowl. Pour the sauce over the top and toss briefly to combine. Serve at once (stopping just long enough to photograph, of course!)

serves 6